Last week, a few of us took a three-hour tour of the laneways and arcades in Melbourne. Thankfully it was a beautiful day and the weather didn't start getting rough...
The first stop was the rather hidden Campbell Arcade, located underground in the Degraves Street Subway. The subway was built for the 1956 Olympics and provides an underground passageway to Flinders Train Station. Most of the shops were closed but our friendly tour guide from Meltours gave us an interesting description of some of the shops. One apparently sells a wide range of goods, including wrestlers masks, perfect for gift giving.
Another store, the Sticky Institute, sells zines, which are "independently-produced cheap short-run publications created because of passion not for profit." Or, as our tour guide explained, photocopied books. Browsing their website, the selection is amazing. For example you can get the 12-page "2010 Fruit Toast review," or "The Time-Consuming Adventures of Treasure-Hunting Toby" or even "That Hurt! Tattoo Ideas for the Broken-Hearted." And that's just in the "T" section. You can also take your own artwork and make a badge for 50 cents. What a bargain!
Since I didn't take any pictures, and you weren't there to hear the guide, you can get an overview of the quirky, eclectic shops at this site or this one. See, I'm here for ya! The area also has 13 large glass cases that are used for public art displays.
Next we headed up Degraves Lane. The guide pointed out the artwork on the building below, an urban doologahl. The doolagahl is somewhat of a boogeyman to the Aboriginal people--he steals kids who stray too far from camp. Artists have modernized him in artwork in various locations around the city. The idea, according to the website, is to bring a "traditional Aboriginal story into an urban context. It is a series of artworks that interact with the urban spaces of Melbourne whilst engaging and sparking imagination in the viewer." This version can be found drinking coffee (as shown below) and or in other positions.
Looking north you can see the Majorca building, built in the 1920s, with its Art Deco facade. My photo is quite faded, so check out this link and scroll down to see this beautiful building.
Laneways, originally meant for deliveries via horse-drawn wagons, are now vibrant places full of shoppers and coffee drinkers.
I learned that I should look up a lot more often while in Melbourne. Here's the Melbourne GPO, or General Post Office, which now contains stores instead of a Post Office.
When we reached Hardware Lane, a great laneway with lots of alfresco dining options, I sent Andy a quick text because I knew his office was just around the corner. He managed to sneak up on us and join the group for a few minutes, which was nice since it was our 14th anniversary. (I celebrated by going on this tour. He celebrated by going rowing at 0-dark-thirty in the morning, and then attending a work function that evening. Fortunately, we were able to celebrate together the following Saturday.)
In many locations, graffiti is allowed and even encouraged. Check out this link for more samples of street art.
Melbournians LOVE their coffee, and Melbourne is noted for its "cafe culture." And you can find all sorts of unique cafes, like this one with great display of chairs hanging in the front and very good coffee, so I'm told. You wouldn't even know the name of this shop is Brother Baba Budan unless you took a peek at a tiny board inside, or did a quick Google search.
Sometimes it's difficult to tell what type of business establishment you're seeing. Is this a bike shop?
A coffee shop?
Actually, it's both! This place would be a perfect business for the A-team since Andy used to work in a bike shop and I took a barista course!
The Royal Arcade was originally built in 1869 and is the oldest retail arcade in Australia.
It features a huge assortment of shops, including one devoted to tarot cards and another devoted just to babushkas. So if you're in the market for a Russian doll, you know where to go.
The Royal Arcade is also noted for the clock which strikes every hour, and the figures of Gog and Magog.
The sign below the clock reads: These two 7-feet giants have been striking the time on Gaunt's clock since 1842. They were carved from clear pine and modeled on the figures erected in Guildhall, London, in 1708 to symbolise the conflict between the ancient Britons and the Trojan invaders. Mythology tells of the giants Gog and Magog (also known as Corineus and Gogmagog) having been captured in battle by the Trojans and made to serve as porters at the gateway of an ancient palace on a site later occupied by the Guildhall. It is traditional for Gog to stand to the north and Magog to the south.
Below is a pic of a great place to get your hair cut. Waaay more interesting than a Supercuts store, no? Which reminds me that back in the Campbell Arcade, there's a barber shop run by a guy who wears a tux and sings opera while he cuts hair...
After 2 1/2 hours of walking, we enjoyed a nice lunch that was included with the tour. I ordered my usual skinny flat white, but I was a bit jealous of my friend's iced coffee, which came with a tall glass of milk and several scoops of ice cream, and a shot of espresso to pour over. Yum!